Hewitson "Baby Bush" Mourvèdre 2021 – Barossa Valley, South Australia

94/100 Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot
93/100 Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion
93/100 Stuart Knox, The Real Review
92/100 Sam Kim, Wine Orbit
92/100 Jeni Port, Wine Pilot
92/100 Regan Drew, Wine Pilot
92/100 Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot
90/100 Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate
90/100 The Wine Front
94/100 Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot (2020 vintage)
94/100 Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot (2020 vintage)
93/100 Regan Drew, Wine Pilot (2020 vintage)
92/100 James Suckling (2020 vintage)
92/100 The Wine Front (2020 vintage)
91/100 Decanter (2020 vintage)
91/100 Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot (2020 vintage)
91/100 Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion (2020 vintage)
90/100 Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate (2020 vintage)
Bronze - Huon Hooke, The Real Review (2020 vintage)

5 Star Winery - James Halliday
James Suckling Top 100 Top Value Wine 2020
James Halliday Top 100 Winery 2017

Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot "So, this beaut little Mourvèdre is based on fruit created by taking cuttings from the Old Garden Vineyard, planted in 1853. It is such a brilliant and vibrant example of this terrific variety. I have seen this wine evolve over many years, and I have to say it just seems to get better each year. The balance of the fruit and oak is harmonious, allowing the fragrances and seductive aromas to reveal their true beauty. A great entry wine to understand some of the appeal of Mourvèdre."

Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion "The 'baby' mourvèdre vines were established in 1998 from cuttings off the epic 1853-planted Old Garden vineyard. Lots of colour and lots of fruit depth for babies! Rich dark plum, blueberry and black cherry fruits with hints of turned earth, light bramble tones, graphite, dark spice, roasting meats and charcuterie. There is a wee whiff of choc-mint way off in the distance, too, with an impressive fruit density, tight granite dust tannins and bright acid drive finishing pure and savoury."

Stuart Knox, The Real Review "Vibrant ruby red colour. Mulberry, raw beef and ironstone aromas. Lashings of blue and purple fruits fill the core whilst it builds layers of anise, black graphite, and dried blood savouries. Tannins have a fine gravel persistence as it rolls long to the dry finish. Remarkable sense of tension and purity at this price point."

Sam Kim, Wine Orbit "Brightly fruited and inviting, the bouquet shows dark plum, raspberry, floral and subtle spice aromas, followed by a silky palate that's fleshy and tasty. Well rounded with fine tannins, making it immediately appealing."

Jeni Port, Wine Pilot "These “babies” certainly bring a lot of flavour to the glass. Twenty four-years-old in 2021, they were planted as cuttings from the best vines off the 1853 Old Garden bush vines, so their provenance is assured. Approachable, fruit-fuelled and spice-ladden, Baby Bush is rich in loganberry, bramble and plum fruits matched nicely with the scent and herbal flavour of fennel, oregano and sage. But there is more. A gentle earthy, olive savouriness on the palate brings a layer of added interest. Ripe, cherry pip tannins are discreet and contribute to the overall succulence and deliciousness of this young red."

Regan Drew, Wine Pilot "Made from vines grown off the cuttings of the 1853 “parents” in the oldest Mourvèdre vineyard on the planet. 50% whole bunch in the winemaking and left on skins for 2 to 3 weeks for plenty of lift and punch. Garnet in hue with a bright ermine rim. Gives some ying and yang with lifted old cherry and chocolate ganache, earthy blueberries, fresh cardboard, easy licorice and master stock (anise and beefstock). Surprisingly medium bodied palate juxtaposed with dark fruit and muscular tannins. A perfect foil to cut through young spring lamb."

Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot "A ‘selection massale’ from the Old Garden Vineyard which was planted back in 1853. So basically what the team term the ‘babies’ of the parent vineyard. 50% whole bunches and subsequently, maturation for 18 months in seasoned French oak barriques. Deep red hue. This is burly, concentrated and muscular – ideal for those who love a big red. There are notes of coffee grinds, black fruits, herbs, beef stock, warm earth and some truffle notes before a mid-length palate moving to silky tannins with more chocolate on the palate. This should impress over the next six to eight years."

Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate "Bush Mourvedre is the littlest sibling in the array of Mourvèdres at this address, and it drinks just like it. It is fresh, young, fun, not complex but equally joyful, spritely! It has notes of mulberry and blackcurrant, and the tannins are a touch more grown up than the flavors would suggest. It's a bit of an "old soul."

Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot "The ‘Baby Bush’ is 100% Mourvèdre, the spicy third baby of the GSM siblings also known as Mataro, and is from vine cuttings from the 1853-planted Old Garden vineyard in the Barossa Valley. A portion of whole bunch fermentation provides perfumed ripe blueberries and fruits of the forest, alongside a grind of spice and savoury leather notes in the background. The flavours are of bramble and cherry, but it’s quite savoury and has lovely texture. Acidity livens the mid-palate, and the wine finishes on chewy, vanillin oak tannins. This wine is super-lamb-cutlet-friendly and a great opportunity to try something different these holidays." (2020 vintage)

Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot "Super value here with what is a strongly varietal Mourvèdre and you will struggle to find a better example than this under $50. It’s a robust, big red but never loses its shape or intensity. It opens with layers of ripe, rich fruits; mulberry, blackberry and new leather plus old oak in the background. The palate then takes it up a couple of notches with Mourvèdre’s more savoury personality coming through thanks to earthy, rustic tones underpinned by sweet, dark Barossan fruits. Concentration is good although the length is better with firm but manicured tannins also providing some very good aging potential. Put it away for a couple of years to let Mourvèdre’s more feral side come to the party." (2020 vintage)

Regan Drew, Wine Pilot "Mourvèdre….Mataro….Monastrell…Dog Strangler. Whatever you call it, this has been a vital cog in the Barossa wine machine for all the years, a key blending component – the George Harrison of the Valley. The occasional solo release hits great heights. Here we have an 1853 massale vineyard selection. Meaty (game/native) hits over cherry fruit, licorice, clove and focused tight with dark berry compote. Leather bookmark (paper page influence), smoky char with crushed rose petals and turned peat. Just medium bodied with excellent dark cherry fruit balance. Easy, super fine tannin and a bright lick of acidity to shine some light in the darker corners of the valley. Ready for now, but for those that prefer the dark." (2020 vintage)

James Suckling "Shows trademark savory characters, such as coal dust, as well as violets, blueberries and wet stones. The palate is also savory, with a rich thread of concentrated blue fruit. Sanguine finish." (2020 vintage)

Decanter "Made with bush-vine fruit from cuttings of the 1853 Hewitson Old Garden Vineyard – hence the name. An easy-drinking style with good depth of brambly purple fruit and an appealing savoury character. Food-friendly tannins and a dash of spice on the finish mean it's a good match for hearty winter dishes." (2020 vintage)

Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot "We recently looked at Hewitson’s ‘Old Garden’ Mourvèdre, a rather famous wine coming from a vineyard planted in 1853 – the
oldest Mourvèdre vines on the planet. This wine comes from a ‘Selection Massale’ planted in 1998, which was taken from the famous 1853 vineyard. Basically, this means that cuttings are taken from the old vines and planted afresh. It preserves the genetic diversity and the quality that the old vines offer. So vines will be selected which have features the winemaker seeks, perhaps more resistance to disease than their neighbours, or more concentrated berries. All sorts of reasons. And there will usually be a mix of attributes. We don’t want boring old uniformity. So, you might not be getting what an ancient vine can offer but you are surely getting the next best thing, and at a fraction of the cost. It also explains the name, ‘Baby Bush’. The colour here is nearly an opaque red. The nose is typical Mourvèdre (anyone exploring the world of wine, wanting to see the characteristics of a single varietal Mourvèdre, this wine is an ideal example); earthy, burly, with chocolate, dark fruits and a meaty note. Rich and ripe, it is a wine of medium length, though full bodied with a good flick of acidity. Has three to six years ahead of it but would be perfect for a good barbecue today." (2020 vintage)

Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion "The 23yo progeny of sélection massale (propogation from multiple vines) of the epic Hewitson Old Garden plantings that were popped in the ground in 1853. Fruit notes of dark plum, black cherry and blueberry with hints of exotic spice, turned earth, roasting meats and curing charcuterie. Plenty of texture and depth with a distinct savoury, earthe." (2020 vintage)

Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate "This 2020 Baby Bush Mourvedre certainly hits the Mataro nail on the head: it's earthy, tannic, plush and layered with purple fruits. It's actually only medium-bodied rather than the oft expressed full-bodied iterations—a good gateway Mataro for the uninitiated." (2020 vintage)

Huon Hooke, The Real Review "Deep red/purple colour. Sweet raspberry cordial aromas with sweaty-reductive overtones, traces of nutmeg-spice. The wine is savoury and slightly disjointed along the palate, with some earthy tannin grip and chew." (2020 vintage)

Winemaker "This younger example of Mourvèdre is a ‘Selection Massale’, or cuttings, from our 1853 Old Garden Vineyard. We commenced planting this vineyard in 1998, to ensure a continuation of the 1853 Mourvèdre legacy. Selection Massale is a traditional way of propagating from exceptional, ancient vines. Born from excellent stock, our parent vineyard is known to be the oldest Mourvèdre in the world and has passed on a notable high quality of fruit"

100% Mourvèdre

Australian Wine Companion "Established in 1998 Hewitson winery is situated in the heart of the Barossa Valley on the historic Seppeltsfield Road and boasts some of the oldest vines in the world. Hewitson fruit is sourced from historic, dry-grown vineyards in the Barossa Valley and also from single site vineyards in Eden Valley, McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills."

Frederick Wildman "Dean Hewitson founded his eponymous winery in 1998. He is a highly respected Australian winemaker ...Hewitson has worked at wineries in Australia, France, Italy and Oregon. Hewitson then moved to the U.S. where he earned a Masters from UC-Davis. On his return home, Dean brought a wealth of knowledge, practical experience and a driving passion to produce wines not only from Barossa Valley, but also from the McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills regions.

Hewitson fundamentally believes great wines are the expression of the soils they are grown in and the season in which they are grown. With his longstanding focus on terroir—specific terroir plots in fact—many of Hewitson’s wines are single vineyard. He sources grapes from not only his own vineyards but also from long-standing grower contracts including a few sourced from some of the oldest living, still productive vines on plots that date back to the mid-19th century and are pre-phylloxera. His ‘Old Garden’ Mourvèdre is a single-vineyard wine, whose vines were planted in 1853 in Barossa Valley and are reputed to be the oldest Mourvèdre vines in the world. Hewitson’s ‘Miss Harry’ is sourced from a Grenache vineyard planted in 1880, also thought to be the oldest Grenache in existence.

Due to Hewitson’s education and experience in Australia, California and France, Hewitson wines combine Old-World traditions with New-World fruit purity. And while he clearly excels with Rhône Valley grape varieties, . A practitioner in solar energy, water recycling and encouraging natural biodiversity, Hewitson produces wines in an environmentally sustainable fashion."

James Halliday "Dean Hewitson was a winemaker at Petaluma [one of Australia's leading wineries] for 10 years, during which time he managed to do three vintages in France and one in Oregon as well as undertaking his Masters at the University of California, Davis. It is hardly surprising that the wines are immaculately made from a technical viewpoint. Dean sources 70-year-old shiraz from McLaren Vale; he also makes a Barossa Valley Mourvedre from vines planted in 1853 at Rowland Flat, and Barossa Valley Shiraz and Grenache from 60-year-old vines at Tanunda."

The Barossa Valley is an extremely important wine-producing region within the Barossa zone of South Australia, particularly associated with powerful red wines from the red wine grape variety Shiraz. A prestigious and internationally renowned region, it is not only home to some of the oldest vineyards and wineries in Australia but produces some of its most recognizable and sought-after brands. A striking feature of the Barossa Valley's wine landscape is the presence of very old vines, proudly showcased on many wine labels and during vineyard tours.